Pleated trousers, worn properly
How to choose pleated trousers that give you room to move in the heat: rise, pleat type, taper and the right hem.
In short
- Pleats add room at the hip and thigh, so the trouser hangs cleanly instead of pulling.
- Choose a mid-to-high rise, a gentle taper and a hem with little or no break.
- Forward pleats are the modern default. Keep the fabric light and the colour tonal.
Pleats are not a fashion quirk. They add fabric where the body needs it, at the hip and the thigh, so a trouser can sit smooth without pulling when you sit down. In hot weather that extra room also keeps cloth off the skin.
Rise: where the trouser sits
Pleated trousers are cut for a higher rise, close to the navel. It looks odd at first if you are used to low-slung jeans, but it lengthens the leg and lets the pleats fall straight. If the waistband sits on your hips, the pleats gape open.
Pleat type
Forward pleats fold toward the fly and are the current standard. Reverse pleats fold toward the pockets and sit flatter. One or two pleats on each side is plenty. When you stand, they should stay closed. If they flare open, the trouser is too small in the seat.
Taper and hem
Choose a leg that narrows gently from knee to ankle. Very wide legs overwhelm shorter men; very narrow legs fight the pleats. Finish the hem with a slight break or none at all, so the shoe and a flash of ankle show. With loafers and no socks, a hem that skims the top of the shoe is ideal.
Fabric
For heat, look at tropical wool, cotton twill in a light weight, or a linen-cotton blend. Pure linen creases hard, which many people accept as part of its character. If you want a cleaner line, pick a blend.
Keep it modern
- Match pleated trousers with a fitted-but-relaxed top, not a baggy one.
- Tuck in a fine knit or wear a shirt untucked at hip length.
- Stay in one colour family: sand, stone, olive or cream.